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Post by Thunderstruck on Sept 13, 2014 7:23:18 GMT -5
When the local Hobie dealer rigged up Thunderstruck for me it was done in my absence which is not a huge deal as I should be able to figure out most things for myself and I know I can rely on your expertise if and when I'm confused about something.
What is the best way to attach the righting lines to the hull?
Thanks in advance
Rob
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Post by DreamWeaver on Sept 13, 2014 8:46:11 GMT -5
Hi Rob,
I just run my righting line thru the eye straps and tie a knot behind each one. This prevents the line from pulling thru while righting. I've found it doesn't really matter whether you go over the top of the hull when righting. I'm 200 lbs and it rights in under 60 seconds even from turtle. It WILL turtle if you sit on the pontoon while it's on it's side. The weight of you sitting up there will force the mast under. once it starts it will keep going. No biggie. Make sure your mast is sealed and you will be fine. If it turtles, stand on the windward(downwind) hull and lean back pulling the righting line. it will come slowly so be patient. Will be upright in 60 seconds or less from turtle guaranteed. If you notice I tie a not in the line which I grab at then swing down to the bottom hull immediately after the boat goes over. Helps keep it from turtling. Once it's back on it's side you will notice the boat will start to sail and turn into the wind. At this point get ready because it comes up fast. So effortless it's silly! Have fun!
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Post by Thunderstruck on Sept 21, 2014 15:21:28 GMT -5
Thanks for the input. I re-tied the righting line today to my satisfaction and have studied many videos on how to right the boat. I hope I never get into the situation but I know that eventually I will.
My next sail will focus on docking and un-docking. The way things are set up at my club I am only successful if the timing is just perfect followed by a leap of faith. I've thought about beaching on the ramp or on the nearby rocky beach but I try to be very careful not to damage the boat. Unfortunately I'm the only cat around so I get A LOT of attention
Suggestions?
Rob "Thunderstruck"
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Post by DreamWeaver on Sept 21, 2014 20:04:25 GMT -5
I always beach on the ramp. If its cold i always have a wet suit on. I come in almost upwind and just before the rudders hit i turn hard upwind into irons, kick the rudders up and jump off on the ramp side. I used to mess with the dock and used to tie it there. Turned into a big pita if the sails are up. Its always under power and will move even with the rudders up. I just set the nose on the ramp and go get the truck. They are tough boats and damn near indestructible. Good luck.
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Post by Thunderstruck on Oct 7, 2014 16:32:24 GMT -5
Today I lowered the mast by myself using a tutorial video on youtube as my guide. I must have missed something because it was an epic fail and needed to rely on the club yard staff to help me. I will have to study this more as I'm used to doing most things alone. I did notice that when the mast was eventually lowered that water was dripping out of it at the joint between upper and lower mast sections. I've never tipped the boat yet so I can only assume its rainwater. Is this normal?
Rob
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Post by DreamWeaver on Oct 8, 2014 5:30:21 GMT -5
No, not normal for a mast that hasn't been submerged. I would closely inspect and maybe silicone all the rivet holes, top,base,cleats and tang. There's a chance that just residual rain water was in the joint between the 2 sections or the track and not actually inside the mast. How long did it drip for? When I turtled mine the first time I noticed water coming out of the mast base when it righted. A lot of it.Boat still popped right up.Is the boat brand new? It should be pretty water tight.
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Post by Thunderstruck on Oct 15, 2014 12:36:36 GMT -5
I just got a response back from the local Hobie dealer and he has provided two solutions.
1) Purge the water and glue the two mast pieces together and
2) drill a small hole at the base of the mast for drainage.
I think I will try your solution first Steve as I have this thing about drilling holes in masts that won't be used for pop-riveting.
Rob
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Post by DreamWeaver on Oct 15, 2014 17:59:20 GMT -5
I hear ya on that one. I would use silicone on the 2 pieces of the mast not glue. I did it to my H16 and worked well. I also siliconed all the rivets on the top and tang on the mast.
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Post by fanatic5117 on Dec 13, 2014 14:07:48 GMT -5
Hi to all. I have owned a Hobie Catwave for the last 3 years and would like to improve my sail power. Any one has any experience with the Hooter system which is catered for lighter airs under 10 knots? Hope to go out sailing tomorrow. Ceers.
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Post by DreamWeaver on Dec 15, 2014 7:38:17 GMT -5
Big welcome 5117! Sorry 5117, No experience personally. Have thought about it for a couple of years now but can't seem to pull the trigger on building a setup for one. The runs here are short as the lakes here run north to south so I'm always on a reach with the winds primarily out of the SE to SW. It's also quite puffy which makes a hooter a handful. On a tack it needs to be furled every time to clear the forestay as well. Here's a vid with a hooter deployed. it sure does scream with a hooter! :
Let us know what you decide.It would surely light the under powered wave up big time!
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Post by fanatic5117 on Dec 16, 2014 9:44:15 GMT -5
Many thanks for your response. Conditions here in Gozo, Malta tend to be gusty and sideshore with some swell. What would you recommend to optimise my speed and performance on the wave; I appreciate the modifications you have employed fashioning an oversize jib; would this be the best option? Good to join the group despite being across the continent.
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Post by DreamWeaver on Dec 17, 2014 8:12:36 GMT -5
A large jib would prob' be the best and easiest option. I meant to add in my previous post that a hooter requires the main to "NOT" be released at any time while the sails are loaded like thru a tack or jibe. The pressure from the hooter could snap the mast so I've heard as the main acts like a back stay on the rigging.
Don't forget to get your mast as far back as possible. Maximum rake block to block. many believe that adding a large jib on the front will increase bow lift and eliminate the pitch pole tendency of the Wave. I have found this NOT to be the case. The added power on the front of the boat cause a substantial increase in speed and will cause the bows to dig more. There'fore getting your mast raked back as far as possible helps a lot. The Wave's mast is "awkwardly" too far forward. Of course I'm talking about higher wind conditions say 15 kts and higher. For anything under 15 kts I run the rigging 1 to 2 holes forward from max rake. In light air you will lose a lot of forward drive at full rake and not necessary. Lastly, adding a traveler will dramatically increase the performance in heavier air. Set it about 6 inches out from center approaching 20 kts and the boat takes off flat and fast. Full power in the main with the top of the sail closed fully powered instead of sheeted out spilling air off the top when sheeting from center.
Some food for though and just my experience of course!
Kind Regards, Steve
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Post by Hammbone on Feb 26, 2015 14:23:45 GMT -5
New Wave owner here. I understand about the improved performance with max rake on the mast, but I'm wondering... to get max rake, are you simply adjusting with the 7 hole adjusters, or do I need to actually lengthen my forestay wire and shorten the shroud wires?
I'm asking because I plan to replace my rigging, but I'm wondering if I can buy stock wires, or if I need to make my own custom length.
Thanks, Jim
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Post by DreamWeaver on Mar 7, 2015 6:27:22 GMT -5
Hi Jim, I guess it depends on whether you are running low profile blocks and not the factory blocks. Low profiles like the ones I'm using will require modifications to the forestay and shrouds. You could always just add a 10 hole adjuster to the forestay and then replace the shrouds with shorter ones. The most important thing to check is if you can get the mast rakes back with the factory blocks (if that's what you're running) so they actually touch. You want them to touch but not too easily. If they touch easily with very little effort, look up at thew top of the sail. If it's not closing completely when the blocks touch, you're raked back too far. Hope that helps, Steve
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Post by Hammbone on Mar 7, 2015 8:26:49 GMT -5
Thanks Steve, I've got the Nautos 6:1 block system coming. I believe it's about the same height as the stock blocks.
I guess I'm just wondering if you're adjusting the rigging by a couple of inches, which can be done with the adjusters, or are you adjusting the rigging by 6 to 8 inches or more, which will require more than just moving to different holes on the adjusters.
I could have just rigged my boat up to see where I'm at on mast rake, but my boat came with the classic rigging, and the wires in the classic rigging are different lengths (with different fittings) than the club wires. I want to switch over to the club rigging because the club rigging has a bigger diameter wire and more adjust-ability, so setting my boat up with the classic rigging probably wouldn't tell me what I want to know.
I guess I'll just have to buy the club rigging, get me some 10 hole adjusters, rig my boat up, and go from there.
Jim
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