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Post by DreamWeaver on Mar 13, 2015 10:32:16 GMT -5
It depends Jim. The shrouds are the important part. Check the lengths on the classic and club shrouds. Both. If they're the same then it won't matter which you use and wouldn't be of benefit to switch. You just won't know without stepping the mast, hoisting the main and pulling the MS down as tight as possible with the new blocks at the maximum rake. That's the only way to know for sure what you'll need. I've heard some say they can go block to block on the factory rigging with the factory ronstan blocks. I couldn't. Needed a longer forestay and shorter shrouds as the rigging was too lose. Also, make sure the rigging isn't too tight block to block. The mast must be free to rotate. I had mine too tight at first. Could lead to a failure. Best, Steve
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Post by Hammbone on Mar 30, 2015 21:53:13 GMT -5
In case anyone is wondering, I put the new "club" rigging on my boat, and I was able to rake the mast back and get block to block on the main sheet. I'm not going to have to change the length on any of my new rigging wires. I also found out that the Nautos 6:1 blocks I got are about 2-3 inches shorter in height than the stock Ronstan blocks, and I was still able to go block to block even with the new Nautos blocks. (Boy are these Nautos blocks nice!) By the way, I compared my new "club" rigging wires with my old "classic" rigging wires. The bridle wires were all the same length. The "club" shroud wires were about an inch shorter than the "classic" shroud wires, and the "club" forestay was about an inch longer than the "classic" forestay. I don't know if this is intentional or not, but those are my findings. Jim Attachments:
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rorr
New Member
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Post by rorr on Aug 13, 2017 8:36:14 GMT -5
Hi Jim, I guess it depends on whether you are running low profile blocks and not the factory blocks. Low profiles like the ones I'm using will require modifications to the forestay and shrouds. You could always just add a 10 hole adjuster to the forestay and then replace the shrouds with shorter ones. The most important thing to check is if you can get the mast rakes back with the factory blocks (if that's what you're running) so they actually touch. You want them to touch but not too easily. If they touch easily with very little effort, look up at thew top of the sail. If it's not closing completely when the blocks touch, you're raked back too far. Hope that helps, Steve Hi All, New to the Wave family. I just picked it up on Friday and haven't set it up yet, but I was thinking of using a line such as FSE Robline Dinghy Control for the forestay instead of getting the 10 hole adjuster. I expect to be changing the rake a lot and will want to be able to do it quickly without a helping hand. Putting those darn clevis pins in and ringdings on for me is a royal pita. Especially setting up in breeze. Should work. Right? I was also thinking if the shrouds need to be shortened or replaced of using line such as Amsteel SK-78 dyneema.
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